Berlinwalks by Peter Fritzsche

Author:Peter Fritzsche
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Henry Holt and Co.

Art nouveau stairwell

It is just a few more steps to Sophienstrasse. At this point, cross over to the other side of Rosenthaler Strasse. There on the corner (Rosenthaler and Neue Schönhauser Strasse) is the unassuming Berolina Apotheke, a pharmacy whose impressive dark-wood interior dates from 1887. Farther along Rosenthaler Strasse, at #51, is the newly opened and very comfortable Cafe Paz, a literary hangout. The second-floor establishment is open from 7 pm to 1 am.

Continue along the right-hand side of Rosenthaler Strasse, bearing slightly to the left with the curve of the street, and cross Weinmeister Strasse, ignoring for the time being the small offshoot misleadingly signposted Rosenthaler Strasse (it is actually called Kleine Rosenthaler Strasse). Pass Auguststrasse and turn right at the larger intersection with Linienstrasse. Once having run along the municipal border of the eighteenth-century city, Linienstrasse is lined with the solid but graceless concrete buildings that would have eventually replaced all the old tenements of the Scheunenviertel had it not been for the Revolution of 1989. At the very next street, Kleine Rosenthaler Strasse, turn right again (and again, be alert for confusing street signs). The building on the corner (Linienstrasse 206, on your right) is an occupied building, otherwise known as a squat. The bright colors of a spider’s web and the whimsical prose on the south side of the building are worth a longer look. The verse reads:

Kinder und Narren verlachen das Geld, verachten die Macht, die Menschen ihnen verspricht

Nur Kinder und Narren spielen mit Trümern, sprechen mit Bäumen, wissen dass Mensch das kann

Nur Kinder und Narren leben in Märchen, in Zauberwelten, und glauben daran.

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